INTRODUCTION
I have shared several great conversations and emails with new pup owners over the past several days. On this page, I'll try to share vital information, resources and photos of the puppies as they grow. Topics such as Nutrition, Healthcare, Socialization, Training and Natural Ability Testing will be a few of several topics I'll try to tackle. Other ideas and resources are welcome - please continue to email questions and ideas as this page evolves. Hopefully this will serve as a great resource for all of us.
How do you say "Griffon"?
Is it a "Grif-fin," "Grif-fun," "Griff-on," or a "Grif-fawn?" Quite honestly, none of the above, and unless you are from Quebec, or France, we are all butchering the correct "Gree-fauw" (imagined or spoken quickly, with your best French accent, with a sort of silent "ng" kind of thing at the end). I come from the upper midwest, where most folks tend to say "Griffin," and that's how I tend to refer to them as well. That said, you'll likely encounter folks who insist it is absolutely one way or another, at which point, I simply call them a "Griff," as I frequently do anyhow, and the Griff discussion and enthusiasm can continue.......
FEEDING
You will want to research dog foods, both in terms of quality and availability. We have fed Molly Nutro (Nutromax) products for her entire life. This is not an endorsement, as there are several quality foods out there (we are actually considering switching to "Innova" products, although this would not be a good time to switch). Several on-line resources are available - dogfoodanalysis.com might be a good starting point. We will start the puppies on Nutro Ultra Puppy Food, and supply each new owner with a bag so you can start tapering in the food of your choice if you wish.
Current estimates are that 30-40% of dogs in the United States are overweight. As a dog becomes older, it becomes more difficult to change both the eating habits of the dog, and the feeding and exercise habits of the owner. It is actually fairly easy to "tweak" the feeding program as necessary. For example, Molly's primary food is "Nutro Ultra," and 75% of the time, we actually free-feed her, as she is an exceptionally active dog. The "Ultra" is often supplemented with Nutro's 30/20 for High Energy Dogs - depending on her activity level. (30% Protein / 20% Fat.) Frequently, she is receiving entirely 30/20, when energy demands are higher - extended hunting trips, where we are both quite active all day for several days in a row. Sometimes, as a function of her biology (when she is "in season"), or as a function of our work getting in the way of fun, her activity level drops. At these times, we are very careful not to over-feed her. Make sure you are comfortable with your vet, and discuss the energy needs of your dog. As you pay attention now, it will pay off in "Health and Happiness" as your dog reaches maturity.
Current estimates are that 30-40% of dogs in the United States are overweight. As a dog becomes older, it becomes more difficult to change both the eating habits of the dog, and the feeding and exercise habits of the owner. It is actually fairly easy to "tweak" the feeding program as necessary. For example, Molly's primary food is "Nutro Ultra," and 75% of the time, we actually free-feed her, as she is an exceptionally active dog. The "Ultra" is often supplemented with Nutro's 30/20 for High Energy Dogs - depending on her activity level. (30% Protein / 20% Fat.) Frequently, she is receiving entirely 30/20, when energy demands are higher - extended hunting trips, where we are both quite active all day for several days in a row. Sometimes, as a function of her biology (when she is "in season"), or as a function of our work getting in the way of fun, her activity level drops. At these times, we are very careful not to over-feed her. Make sure you are comfortable with your vet, and discuss the energy needs of your dog. As you pay attention now, it will pay off in "Health and Happiness" as your dog reaches maturity.
Natural Ability Tests - Sign-Up Early
Getting yourself and the pup ready for the Natural Ability Test has a few simple guidelines to go over, which I will cover in a later post, as well as provide additional resources. It is key, however, to contact your local chapter for test dates and get signed-up early. For those of us in Northern climes, we may have limited choices for the test. If you are testing in Minnesota or Wisconsin, as a few of us are, we will probably be signing up for an August or September test (myself included, as that is usually my locale in late sumer, as we are keeping a couple pups). Spring tests will likely not be an option, as they will be over 16 months of age. Pup owners in the East, South or West, may have a few more options. Spots fill up early, so find your local chapter, and get on the list. (Navhda.com will have a link or contact for your local club).
I purchased two "Pet Taxi's" today for people who are going to be flying and "carrying on" their puppies. If you would like one, just let me know (they were 32.99 apiece, and I can easily return them if people don't want them, or I can get more if others want them too.) They are a soft sided case made for carrying on. The thing I thought was nice about them, is they will make an excellent "bird bag" for training days. The pups are growing very quickly, and their eyes could start to open any day. A little bit of "ticking" is beginning to show through on some of their white coats. Tails have been docked and dew claws removed - with the vet commenting that they all look very healthy. Reservations have been made for all the pups. We are looking forward to meeting all of you. We'll keep you posted, and put up more photos - especially as they start to become more animated.
One female opened here eyes last night (she was the last of the 9 born.) I suspect that the others are not far behind. At almost two weeks, they weigh from 34-40 ounces, with the "little man" tipping the scales at 19. We are confident he will do well, however we haven't taken a reservation for him, as it would be difficult to offer a genetic guarantee, and, quite honestly, Meagen has grown quite fond of him.
SOCIALIZATION
There is some disagreement among animal behavior specialists, breeders, veterinarians and dog owners as to the perfect time to take puppies home. This "disagreement" ranges in age from as early as 6, to as late as 16 weeks. Given that, there is little disagreement that these are very "formative" ages for the pup, and socialization for the pups is key. This socialization process lasts well past the pup's first year.
I don't claim to be any type of professional trainer or animal behavior specialist. To the contrary, I'm still climbing the learning curve, and probably behind several of the soon to be Griff owners. I do believe, however, that the more you can "paint a picture" for the pup, as opposed to just "letting the scene unfold," the more success you will have, and the more the pup will look to you in terms of how you want it to react. Positive outcomes are key to the socialization process. For example, you don't want to just let the puppy play with the neighbors' 5-year old, unless you know it is going to be a positive outcome. Obviously, if the youngster hurt or scared the pup, it could be detrimental to the pup's views of children. Less often realized I think, is that the pup may play too vigorously - establishing its dominance over a strange child or family member without anyone paying attention. Although it all looks fun and harmless, as it is just kids laughing and and puppies licking, the pup has lost focus on who is in charge. This doesn't mean that playing with kids should be discouraged - in fact to the contrary, you simply need to pay attention to the situation and let the pup understand that it is not "making the rules." Creating the situations and being able to control the outcomes is key.
We have started to bring several children and adult friends of Molly's to meet the pups. As eyes continue to open, and personalities begin to develop, we will continue to bring human friends, and some of Molly's most passive canine friends to meet the pups. Over the next several weeks, as weaning is started, we will also start the socialization process with individual and small groups of puppies, in the absence of mom. We will introduce the pups to gunfire and gamebirds. You may start planning now for your pup's first introduction to water - location, water temperature, etc. (encourage and don't force them with a favorite toy that floats into very shallow water, and continue with progressively deeper water. This may take several different occasions, however don't be surprised if it is almost immediate (it took Molly about 5 minutes to decide she wanted to venture out into the "look mom, my feet aren't touching" zone.) Keep these first occasions, brief, warm and full of praise.
Often, for even experienced trainers, obedience classes are a good idea - its an opportunity for the pup to meet several other dogs in a controlled environment - frequently these classes are offered by local community education programs or professional training facilities. Several new pup owners have another dog at home. It may be a good time now to quietly reassert yourself as the "alpha" beings in the household - this could help ease tensions as jealousy, property and territorial issues are sorted out between the established pet and the "new face on the block."
PS - for those of you who will be new Navhda members, there is a good article on "Dominance Training" on the Navhda.com main page.
I don't claim to be any type of professional trainer or animal behavior specialist. To the contrary, I'm still climbing the learning curve, and probably behind several of the soon to be Griff owners. I do believe, however, that the more you can "paint a picture" for the pup, as opposed to just "letting the scene unfold," the more success you will have, and the more the pup will look to you in terms of how you want it to react. Positive outcomes are key to the socialization process. For example, you don't want to just let the puppy play with the neighbors' 5-year old, unless you know it is going to be a positive outcome. Obviously, if the youngster hurt or scared the pup, it could be detrimental to the pup's views of children. Less often realized I think, is that the pup may play too vigorously - establishing its dominance over a strange child or family member without anyone paying attention. Although it all looks fun and harmless, as it is just kids laughing and and puppies licking, the pup has lost focus on who is in charge. This doesn't mean that playing with kids should be discouraged - in fact to the contrary, you simply need to pay attention to the situation and let the pup understand that it is not "making the rules." Creating the situations and being able to control the outcomes is key.
We have started to bring several children and adult friends of Molly's to meet the pups. As eyes continue to open, and personalities begin to develop, we will continue to bring human friends, and some of Molly's most passive canine friends to meet the pups. Over the next several weeks, as weaning is started, we will also start the socialization process with individual and small groups of puppies, in the absence of mom. We will introduce the pups to gunfire and gamebirds. You may start planning now for your pup's first introduction to water - location, water temperature, etc. (encourage and don't force them with a favorite toy that floats into very shallow water, and continue with progressively deeper water. This may take several different occasions, however don't be surprised if it is almost immediate (it took Molly about 5 minutes to decide she wanted to venture out into the "look mom, my feet aren't touching" zone.) Keep these first occasions, brief, warm and full of praise.
Often, for even experienced trainers, obedience classes are a good idea - its an opportunity for the pup to meet several other dogs in a controlled environment - frequently these classes are offered by local community education programs or professional training facilities. Several new pup owners have another dog at home. It may be a good time now to quietly reassert yourself as the "alpha" beings in the household - this could help ease tensions as jealousy, property and territorial issues are sorted out between the established pet and the "new face on the block."
PS - for those of you who will be new Navhda members, there is a good article on "Dominance Training" on the Navhda.com main page.
The tennis ball, for reference. (Two weeks ago, they were barely bigger than a tennis ball.) Almost all of their eyes are open now (2 weeks to the day), and a couple of them are starting to walk short distances on all four, without dragging their bellies. I'm careful not to use a flash with their freshly hatched eyes.
Electric Football - Does anyone remember that game? Flip the switch and players go everywhere, with no ryhme or reason. Sort of like 16 day old puppies in a whelping box when there not sleeping or feeding - its hilarious. All of them are moving well on all fours and bouncing off of walls and each other.
I apologize for note getting any new posts up lately - it has been snowing solid in Whitefish for the past 3 days and I have known nothing but the seat of a Nordic Ski Trail Groomer. The pups are doing great, and we are starting puppy food mash this week. They are all really moving well, and I PROMISE more photos soon. Thanks for your patience - pups and mom are all sleeping soundly.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)